Post by bnefit on Jul 25, 2005 10:59:05 GMT 10
Stage 1 - Removing the AC Control Panel
Step 1: Remove the screw that is directly underneath the middle control as shown in the picture.
Step 2: Work on the left side of the AC Control Panel first as that is where the catch is and there is more room to work with on the left side. You can use a flat head screwdriver wrapped with cloth to assist you. Please be very careful as it can scratch your panel easily, even with the cloth.
I pushed the area where the catch is inwards and then insert the screwdriver in to pry open the panel. Once the left side is out, use some force around the panel and the right side should be able to come off as well.
Stage 2 ¡V Taking out the Headunit
Step 1: Remove the 2 nut screws below the headunit. There is one at each side. Put your head under the AC Control area and you should be able to see the screws. You will not be able to take the headunit out without removing these screws beforehand.
(I had a hard time finding these screws initially. Hope these pictures can help you locate the screws with much ease.)
Step 2: Removing the headunit is probably the most difficult and tedious stage of this DIY. I started with the bottom left side of the panel and work around it in a clockwise direction. Put your hands below the bottom left side of the headunit and try to get part of the panel out by applying some force.
There are 2 catches on each side of the headunit and 3 more at the top. Apply some force to pull out the panel outwards and use a screwdriver wrapped with cloth to get the catches out. Please be careful and try not to scratch the panel.
Force is really required to get the panel out. At times it looked and sounded scary as if something is going to break. But it seems that the material Honda uses is of good quality! Just be aware of where the catches are and it will be easier.
Step 3: Try to take the headunit out gently to a position deem fit for you to work with. There is no need to remove any existing connections at the back of the headunit as there will be enough room to work with as it is.
Stage 3 ¡V Removing of Glove Box Cover
Please note that this is not a compulsory stage. It all depends on how you want to run your Aux In wire around your car. This stage is required if you plan to run the wires through the glove box compartment.
Step 1: Remove the screws underneath the glove box. There are a total of 3 screws.
Step 2: Just play around with the cover and you will be able to take the cover off. It is very easy.
Stage 4 ¡V DIY Aux In Connector
The Aux terminal pins are in the green block. This picture is not very well taken but I am just trying to provide a brief idea of how the Aux looks like.
Wiring diagram for the headunit.
RCA to 3.5mm stereo cable.
www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/42a91ee00a58639e273fc0a87f9c072e/Product/View/C1240
Step 1: Referring to the wiring diagram, pins B1, B3, B5 and B6 are required to be connected as follows:
B1 (AUX DET) to Signal Gnd of Right Channel RCA
B3 (AUX-R) to Right Channel RCA
B5 (AUX-L) to Left Channel RCA
B6 (GND) to Signal Gnd of Left Channel RCA
B1 and B6 are shorted together and the main reason of shorting these two pins together is to activate the Aux function.
Step 2: In order to connect the pins accordingly and run the wires out from these pins, I bought this connector from thingy Smiths for $0.69 per packet. It looks like this:
This connector was the closest I can find at thingy Smith. Notice that this particular connector can allow up to 3 connections. In actual fact, we only need to connect 4 pins out of the 6 pins from the Aux terminal block. thingy Smith is also selling connector for 2 connections as well.
Step 3: The connector cannot fit in the Aux block nicely as it has got two steps at each side. Cut the steps away by using a pair of scissors or a cutter.
Step 4: Although there are 6 pins in the Aux block and using 2 connectors will give me 6 openings, the Aux block will not fit the 2 connectors in series. As only need 4 pins, therefore you can cut and make it into a connector with 2 connections. Refer to the link below for a better idea.
Notice in the picture that the left connector is the one with 3 connections going into pins B1, B2 and B3 while the one on the right is the connector with 2 connections going into pins B5 and B6. Pin B4 is just within the gap between the 2 connectors.
You can skip this step if you buy the connector with 2 connections in the first place.
Step 5: Cut off the RCA plugs and strip the wires. Insert and crimp the wires onto the mini lug. Additional wire is required to act as the Jumper wire.
Do for the following combination:
RCA Right Channel cable to lug and connect to Pin B3
RCA Left Channel cable to lug and connect to Pin B5
RCA shield cable and one end of Jumper wire to lug and connect to Pin B1 or B6
The other end of Jumper wire to lug connected to Pin B1 or B6
Step 6: Run the cable out of the headunit as you like and connect the 3.5mm stereo plug to your ipod or whatever device you want to connect. Sit back, relax and forget about the pain on your fingers!
This is where my ipod is now in my car.
p.s. a couple of pictures were attached with courtesy from YP0048 of Fit Jazz Club Singapore(http://forum.sg-fit-jazz.com/) and special thanks to my mate Alok for all the assistance.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer
None of the authors, contributors or anyone else can be responsible for your use of the information contained in or linked from the above information.
No consequential damages can be sought against the authors, contributors or anyone, as the information resources were developed on a voluntary basis and provided to you gratuitously.
There is no agreement between you and the authors, contributors or anyone else regarding your use or modification of the information.
YOUR INDEPENDENT CONFIRMATION ON THE INFORMATION IS STRICTLY RECOMMENDED!
Step 1: Remove the screw that is directly underneath the middle control as shown in the picture.
Step 2: Work on the left side of the AC Control Panel first as that is where the catch is and there is more room to work with on the left side. You can use a flat head screwdriver wrapped with cloth to assist you. Please be very careful as it can scratch your panel easily, even with the cloth.
I pushed the area where the catch is inwards and then insert the screwdriver in to pry open the panel. Once the left side is out, use some force around the panel and the right side should be able to come off as well.
Stage 2 ¡V Taking out the Headunit
Step 1: Remove the 2 nut screws below the headunit. There is one at each side. Put your head under the AC Control area and you should be able to see the screws. You will not be able to take the headunit out without removing these screws beforehand.
(I had a hard time finding these screws initially. Hope these pictures can help you locate the screws with much ease.)
Step 2: Removing the headunit is probably the most difficult and tedious stage of this DIY. I started with the bottom left side of the panel and work around it in a clockwise direction. Put your hands below the bottom left side of the headunit and try to get part of the panel out by applying some force.
There are 2 catches on each side of the headunit and 3 more at the top. Apply some force to pull out the panel outwards and use a screwdriver wrapped with cloth to get the catches out. Please be careful and try not to scratch the panel.
Force is really required to get the panel out. At times it looked and sounded scary as if something is going to break. But it seems that the material Honda uses is of good quality! Just be aware of where the catches are and it will be easier.
Step 3: Try to take the headunit out gently to a position deem fit for you to work with. There is no need to remove any existing connections at the back of the headunit as there will be enough room to work with as it is.
Stage 3 ¡V Removing of Glove Box Cover
Please note that this is not a compulsory stage. It all depends on how you want to run your Aux In wire around your car. This stage is required if you plan to run the wires through the glove box compartment.
Step 1: Remove the screws underneath the glove box. There are a total of 3 screws.
Step 2: Just play around with the cover and you will be able to take the cover off. It is very easy.
Stage 4 ¡V DIY Aux In Connector
The Aux terminal pins are in the green block. This picture is not very well taken but I am just trying to provide a brief idea of how the Aux looks like.
Wiring diagram for the headunit.
RCA to 3.5mm stereo cable.
www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/42a91ee00a58639e273fc0a87f9c072e/Product/View/C1240
Step 1: Referring to the wiring diagram, pins B1, B3, B5 and B6 are required to be connected as follows:
B1 (AUX DET) to Signal Gnd of Right Channel RCA
B3 (AUX-R) to Right Channel RCA
B5 (AUX-L) to Left Channel RCA
B6 (GND) to Signal Gnd of Left Channel RCA
B1 and B6 are shorted together and the main reason of shorting these two pins together is to activate the Aux function.
Step 2: In order to connect the pins accordingly and run the wires out from these pins, I bought this connector from thingy Smiths for $0.69 per packet. It looks like this:
This connector was the closest I can find at thingy Smith. Notice that this particular connector can allow up to 3 connections. In actual fact, we only need to connect 4 pins out of the 6 pins from the Aux terminal block. thingy Smith is also selling connector for 2 connections as well.
Step 3: The connector cannot fit in the Aux block nicely as it has got two steps at each side. Cut the steps away by using a pair of scissors or a cutter.
Step 4: Although there are 6 pins in the Aux block and using 2 connectors will give me 6 openings, the Aux block will not fit the 2 connectors in series. As only need 4 pins, therefore you can cut and make it into a connector with 2 connections. Refer to the link below for a better idea.
Notice in the picture that the left connector is the one with 3 connections going into pins B1, B2 and B3 while the one on the right is the connector with 2 connections going into pins B5 and B6. Pin B4 is just within the gap between the 2 connectors.
You can skip this step if you buy the connector with 2 connections in the first place.
Step 5: Cut off the RCA plugs and strip the wires. Insert and crimp the wires onto the mini lug. Additional wire is required to act as the Jumper wire.
Do for the following combination:
RCA Right Channel cable to lug and connect to Pin B3
RCA Left Channel cable to lug and connect to Pin B5
RCA shield cable and one end of Jumper wire to lug and connect to Pin B1 or B6
The other end of Jumper wire to lug connected to Pin B1 or B6
Step 6: Run the cable out of the headunit as you like and connect the 3.5mm stereo plug to your ipod or whatever device you want to connect. Sit back, relax and forget about the pain on your fingers!
This is where my ipod is now in my car.
p.s. a couple of pictures were attached with courtesy from YP0048 of Fit Jazz Club Singapore(http://forum.sg-fit-jazz.com/) and special thanks to my mate Alok for all the assistance.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer
None of the authors, contributors or anyone else can be responsible for your use of the information contained in or linked from the above information.
No consequential damages can be sought against the authors, contributors or anyone, as the information resources were developed on a voluntary basis and provided to you gratuitously.
There is no agreement between you and the authors, contributors or anyone else regarding your use or modification of the information.
YOUR INDEPENDENT CONFIRMATION ON THE INFORMATION IS STRICTLY RECOMMENDED!
