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Post by amateurjazzowner on Feb 18, 2006 18:51:02 GMT 10
wanna drag with me with this in my ride? hahaha ;D 8' passive, it works nearly the same as my previous 12' ported bandpass. Not bad for a gimmick eh? Thanks vividjazz for the advice on installation.
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Post by vividjazz on Feb 18, 2006 19:34:12 GMT 10
Does the driver (sub itself) fire inward to the bottle enclosure or out the base? If out the base you might find it sounds better pointing toward the hatch. Worth trying (while car stationary with engine running as you don't want it rolling around) to see if it sounds any different. With it currently firing in to the side it might not sound any different. Generally though rearward firing subs in hatches sound better and forward facing sound better in sedans.
I think it looks good though. Makes a change from the boring boxes.
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Post by amateurjazzowner on Feb 18, 2006 21:01:31 GMT 10
Yeah the sound fires out of the base - I initlally wanted it to be on the right side in front of the stacker so that there's room for sound to move after it gets doofed out, but the guys that installed it for me (believe it or not, I dun have a drill to secure it haha) said the top rectangular shape opens up on the side, which allows air and sound to travel, which in their view wouldnt make a difference if they put it on the left side facing the wall. The reason they didnt wanna put it on the right is because it then takes up too much room and i cant put as much things in the boot. Maybe after a while I will get the proper metal bazooka amp powered subs (with NOS labelled on them ), which presumably would pump out much more high quality bass than this one.
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ahcash
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Posts: 1,463
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Post by ahcash on Feb 21, 2006 15:11:40 GMT 10
cool yeah.. this is connect to the stock unit? How?
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Post by vividjazz on Feb 21, 2006 19:01:57 GMT 10
The sub is connected to the amp behind it. If the amp is connected to the stock head unit then it will be via (high) speaker cables thru a converter as no (low) RCA outs on the headunit. eg. $24 unit from Jaycar. Some amps have both connectors on them so one of these high to low level converters is not necessary. Decent aftermarket headunits are not that expensive with a good brand name MP3 capable unit with at least 1RCA out for around the $150-$200 mark.
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Post by amateurjazzowner on Feb 21, 2006 19:55:08 GMT 10
yeah and modulates to ur stock headunit's radio frequency...which I think i've become more and more sensitive to. Worst of all, for some reason ever since after I got the sub installed I'm getting a buzzing sound every time I turn it up that I can definitely tell is not from the CD/MP3 itself. Once I turned it up to see what it was and guess what, the left front speaking just stopped working! I turned off all the systems and it worked again after i switched it back on but I am still getting the buzzing sound, which is increasingly become of concern. When the speaker didnt work, i switched off the stacker and put it on radio and it still worked - so I'm beginning to think its the stacker...
taking it back to have tweeters and soundproofing done sometime this week and will get this checked out. I hope its not the sub thats doing the damage.
vividjazz i havent forgotten about the double DIN - after the tweeters and soundproof will come the headunit...will definitely get back to ya!
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